Pasta Loft offers up more than Italian

We've been watching the signs at the Pasta Loft all summer. First – "Twin Lobster Dinner for $19.99" and then, "Triple Lobster Dinner for $19.99." That third crustacean and the fact that the restaurant's rooftop deck was open did us in. We had to see for ourselves. Surely, we thought, with two or three lobsters, you wouldn't be getting much else to eat for that price. And then, there was that nagging little thought: "Seafood at an Italian restaurant?"

First, unfortunately, it was a blazing hot night when we went to the Pasta Loft, so sitting on the roof away from the air conditioning would take an act of courage we did not possess. Instead, we settled in the restaurant's upstairs, which definitely does have a loft feeling. But we did check out the deck, and we found it really charming. We will go back on a cooler day.

Second, we quickly found out that the Pasta Loft doesn't just do Italian. It has a big and diverse menu.

It being so hot and all, we skipped cloyingly sweet drinks and had a round of cold Black and Tans ($4 each) and some appetizers of Steamed Mussels ($9.95), with garlic and shallots in a sweet sherry wine sauce, and Spinach and Artichoke Dip ($8.50), baked spinach, artichoke and herb cheese served with seasoned baguette chips.

The mussels were small, sweet and ocean-side fresh, and we were glad that our server had brought lots of home-baked Italian bread with dipping sauce when we were first seated so we could use the bread to sop up every last bit of the mussel broth.

The dip was also good – hot and creamy, with the earthy taste of the vegetables shining through the cheese.

For entrees, Mr. T for T couldn't quite pass up the boiled lobster triplets, although he usually doesn't eat lobster out. The restaurant has had lobster specials throughout the summer, but it's good to call the day you plan to visit to check out what exactly those specials will be, since they change based on supply. He was amazed that his and all dinners at the restaurant are served with soup and salad and a choice of potato or pasta. That's a lot of food for $20, and the server said we could split up the three lobsters anyway we wanted with fellow diners.

It just so happened that these babies were amazingly sweet and perfectly cooked – not usually the case with boiled lobster at a restaurant. Mr. T for T also enjoyed his plentiful garden salad with the house Italian dressing.

It was a little too hot to appreciate the Italian Wedding Soup that also came with the meal, although others in our party didn't find it an authentic rendering of the dish.

Another in our party opted for the Filet and Lobster Bearnaise ($20.95), fresh lobster meat on a flame-grilled choice twin tenderloin filet, topped with Bearnaise sauce. Again, this being a pasta house known for its brick-oven pizza, among other things, we didn't know what to expect from this dish, but it was really good. The meat was tender and flavorful, and the lobster with Bearnaise was spot on.

Two of us did indulge in Italian dishes. Junior T for T had the children's Spaghetti or Ziti with Meatballs ($5.95 with a drink), and someone else went for the Veal Parmesan ($16.95), with homemade meat sauce and a side of pasta. She liked the sauce but found the veal a tad dry.

Another child in our party enjoyed his order of Buffalo Chicken Wings ($8.95), baked with honey buffalo sauce and served with celery, carrots and homemade blue cheese dressing.

We've tried Pasta Loft's wood-fired brick oven pizza in the past and can easily recommend the Tomato Basil, which is made with fresh basil, roasted garlic, sliced Roma tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella cheese among others.

A few other things to keep in mind at the Pasta Loft: It offers a knockout Frutti de Mare dinner for two for $34.95, made with a whole lobster, shrimp, scallops, calamari, clams and mussels in a marinara sauce – an excellent bargain.

The Pasta Loft also has live entertainment, which is listed on its Web site, and a Frugal Fare takeout menu, where any two items are $20 and include Citrus Scallop Salad, Shrimp Scampi Ravioli and Braised Short Ribs, to name a few.

Dessert offerings at the restaurant include the usual choices of Lava Cake, Tiramisu and Brownie Sundae.

Overall, we were pleased by the excellent prices, large portions and fun atmosphere at the Pasta Loft, and – lobster specials or no lobster specials – we'll come back.

***½ Pasta Loft restaurant

241 Union Square, Milford.

672-2270, www.pastaloft.com.

<b>Food:</b> ***½

<b>Service:</b> ****

<b>Value:</b> ****

<b>CUISINE:</b> Italian.

<b>Prices:</b> $5.99-$20.95.

<b>Hours:</b> 11:</b>30 a.m.-9 p.m. (dining room), 11:</b>30 a.m.-10 p.m. (pizzeria) Monday-Wednesday, 11:</b>30 a.m.-9:</b>30 p.m. (dining room) 11:</b>30 a.m.-11 p.m. (pizzeria) Thursday, 11:</b>30 a.m.-9:</b>30 p.m. (dining room), 11:</b>30 a.m.-midnight (pizzeria) Friday-Saturday, 11:</b>30 a.m.-8:</b>30 p.m. (dining room), 11:</b>30 a.m.-9 p.m. (pizzeria) Sunday.

<b>Handicapped Accessible:</b> Yes.

<b>Vegetarian Friendly:</b> Yes.

<b>Alcohol:</b> Yes.

<b>DRESS:</b> Casual.

<b>WOULD WE GO BACK?</b> Yes.

***** = Perfect

**** = Excellent

*** = Good

** = Fair

* = Poor

<i>Overall rating is not necessarily an average of Food, Service and Value ratings.</i>